The Bolsheviks tortured prisoners in this chapel, built in the 1800s. (Photo by Gregg Zoroya, USA TODAY)

The Solovetsky Archipelago is off the beaten path, with a population of 1,500. Lodging is rustic. Travel is largely over pitted dirt roads. Mosquitoes are vicious (September is the best month to avoid them). No English is spoken. Special permission from the Russian government is required for entry.

The few travel companies that offer tours are adept at arrangements. The nicest place for visitors is Solovetsky Palomnik lodges, about a half-mile from the monastery on Solovetsky Island. They are new, comfortable and more like cabins than hotel rooms. Their restaurant offers excellent local fish.

The best way to go is with an organized group. Some options:

MIR Corp., Seattle. Includes a five-day, four-night visit to Solovetsky Island in its twice-a-year Gulag Archipelago Tour. Rates, depending on group size, start at $2,050 per person. Airfare is extra. Custom-group packages can be designed. Information, 800-424-7289 or www.mircorp.com.

IntourVisa Consulting, New York. Offers tours of Russia and will design a trip to Solovetsky. Information, 212-953-9599.

EuroCruises, New York. Offers a White Sea cruise that stops at Solovetsky for morning and afternoon tours. Cruise rates begin at $3,698, with airfare included from New York. Information, 800-688-3876.

For the more intrepid who have a working knowledge of Russian, in-country arrangements can be made through Pomor-Tour or Solovki-Tour. Both have offices in Archangelsk (Archangel). Pomor-Tour has eight weekend tours to the islands next summer and can arrange custom visits. Information, 011-7-8182-439797. Solovki-Tour offers trips from Kem. Information, 011-7-8182-443293. (The Eastern time zone is eight hours behind.)